There's no denying that Joe Simpson is rather unique in the mountaineering community, in that he is a very talented wordsmith--although there is always an assumption that the reader is familiar with climbing terms. I'm not a climber but I've always been fascinated with literature about mountaineering. I bought this book because Into The Void literally took my breath away in places. However, I found Dark Shadows Falling to be a bit of a disappointment.

Joe's story of a climb of his is interspersed with his opinion of the mountaineering society in general. In reading the book, I felt as though he didn't have enough of a story to pad out the experience of his own climb, so he decided to interweave it with descriptions of the climbs of others and his feelings about today's mass market mentality with regards to mountaineering. This approach frustrated me no end - I would have preferred the book to be about one or the other, or for there to be a clear delineation between the two subjects. There appeared to me to be no clear link between Joe's story of his climb and Joe's opinion of other climbers. As a result, Dark Shadows Falling doesn't strike me as a cohesive book.

After finishing Dark Shadows Falling, I almost felt as though the whole book was a justification to include the (admittedly, jawdropping) 1989 photo by Karl Huyberechts of the South Col at Everest.

What an experience to read joe's books.

Rating: 5/5

Joe's style and sensitive nature keeps you looking for the next book. His wealth of real life experience together with his ability to write permeate thoughout his books. As a climber he makes me think of my own ethics and and morals when it comes to climbing and the people I do it with I too believe that Joe is right about the decaying ethics that have permeated the very fabric of our mountains and the culture of people that climb and live in these parts. I too can empathise with Joe to some extent of the lonileness of being lost or injured in these wild place. I now have read all of Joe's books some of them twice and eagley await the next instalment from a writer and climber that I would one day love to meet. Keep on writng Joe but more importantly keep the cimbing community honest with your stark revalations and blinding truths about what is going on in our mountains today.

Whom is my Neighbour

Rating: 4/5

I am extremely fascinated by DARK SHADOWS FALLING. In this book about mountaineering, Mr Joe Simpson writes of his effort to understand why mountaineering ethical standards seem to have slipped to such low standards on Everest. (p203)

From his perspective, Everest is simply another holiday destination, just more expensive, as befits its size. Everyone benefits, exept of course the mountain. The most embarassing and humiliating aspect to me, as a person from an affluent western nation, is the disregard shown for the lives of others by people just like me. The author admonishes, _People from rich western nations showed what they really cared about - themselves._ (115)

Mr Simpson has written a first-rate apologetic in defense of the faith of mountaineering, and is calling for a return to the _essence of why we went to the mountains_. (28). The book is organized to support his quest to answer the question of why ethics on the mountain have fallen harder than an avalanche. A variety of answers are proposed in each chapter and bolstered by case studies. For example, the culprits offered in chapter 2 include overcrowding, human fallibility, incompetence, and unforgiving natural elements with little margin for error. On the other hand, Mr Simpson offers counter-examples that showcase the standard of ethics he promotes. This same chapter details the heroic effort of valiant rescuers. In this manner of arugument, counter-argument and case studies, media attention, monetary motives and an inhumane level of disregard are investigated.

Mr Simpson relates his own experiences as he prepares for a climb of the South Face of Pumori. Here he finds his ideals put to the test. Compromise is always a temptation and luck plays an important role in survival. Always the love and delight of the mountains radiates as he describes their solitude and beauty. If you are intested in mountaineering, adventure or ethics, this book may be interesting to you.

As is usually the case, my interest is in spiritual matters. Mr Simpson fits the role of a prophet quite smartly. Herr Doktor Gershom Scholem offered that important distinctive concepts, or philosphies, tend to have similar histories of development.

In this view, the first revelation expressing the fundamental contents of a religion is the greatest, the highest in rank. Mr Simpson points to the mountaineers that led the way, such as, Heinrich Harrer, first to ascend the fearsome North Face of the Eiger, whose book _The White Spider_ Joe read at the age of fourteen and was immediately hooked on its mesmerizing story.

As these distinctive ideas gain commerce, organizations evolve to husband their growth and assimilation. Strangely, the needs of the organization begin to overwhelm the message. The symbol becomes an icon. This is the stage to which mountaineering has apparently evolved, according to Mr Simpson. Pragmatism, greed and entertainment, Mr Simpson purports, is fast replacing the ethics of respect for the mountain and fellow climbers that were integral to the experience of the first mountaineers.

The stage that is on the horizon for mountaineering is marked by a break from the traditional authority as the _revolutionary mystics_ move forward with a new paradigm that validates the original concepts. As mountaineering enters this stage it will be interesting to see who champions the cause of Mr Simpson's clarion call to higher ethics. The candidates might include the Commercial Guides who are themselves fine mountaineers for the most part, the Nepalese Government who are torn between dour economics and a love for the natural beauty of their homeland. With deepest regret, in my opinion, the least likely candidate is someone like me. In particular, those Mr Simpson identifies as affluent westerners, the ones who reap the most benefit and yet, are instruments of the most harm at Everest.

I spend less time than I would like in the out-of-doors, and I have never, ever _mountaineered_. Even so, as I read DARK SHADOWS FAILLING, I am reminded of the ease with which my spiritual relationship may fall into disrepair. At times, the day-to-day activities overwhelm the ideal of my first, spiritual commitment. It is then that I find it helpful to return to the precepts that started my journey. For me, it is a blessing to be able to renew my spiritual commitment each day by setting aside a time for study and reflection. In this way, I feel that I might be fostering the original ethics.

PEACE