gastronomy

From the pages of an small English food journal, "Petits Propos Culinaires," available only by subscription, comes a remarkable anthology, a veritable page turner. Started in 1979, by Sara and Alan Davidson and shaped by the views of Elizabeth Davidson and the immediate requirements of Richard Olney (you'll just have to read the intro), PPC set out to explore the less trammeled areas of food study.

The results - a distillation of 20 years - range from the hilarious (an experiment in cooking while driving, "Manifold Absurdity") to the erudite (restoration of a 1670s manor kitchen, "Ham House"). Most essays contain elements of both. The book is divided into seven sections, the articles briefly described in a succinct chapter introduction and each article headed with a background note.

The book begins with "Scoops," and includes an exposé on the identity of the trendy red peppercorn, the origin of Summer Pudding and the ongoing labors of INTERSPI, the intercontinental spicy mystery detectives, in sniffing out the humble origins of a spice with a fancy name. "Culinary History" explores the Japanese evolution of British curry rice, "An Experiment in Bronze Age Cooking," and the history of hunting and eating herons, while "On Your Plate" focuses on particular dishes, such as the ins and outs of snails, the real deal on olive oil and the infamy of eggplant.

"Books and Cooks" includes "Breakfast with Jane Austen" (delightful!), food with Chekhov and Rossini and a Thai funeral cookbook. "Exotica" has several related pieces on the culinary charms of worms and snakes as well as an American mountain boy's 19th century observations of trail food. While many of the essays feature recipes, the "Recipes" section homes in, including a must-try strawberry jam, a Russian Easter Kulich and a pine-scented mussel feast. "Notes and Queries" is the journal department for odds and ends, letters from and to the editors on any number of obscure subjects, from politically correct food terminology to French kitchen fads.

Not all of the writers are professional food writers (though many of the best are present) but the writing is, without exception, lively and personable, even though most of the essays come with source notes. There are lots of inside jokes, but the reader never feels left out, and the essays are fascinating, informative and witty. This should be a hit with anyone interested in food (who isn't?) and should win PPC armies of new subscribers (contact info provided on the last page).

Those of you who are familiar with Petits Propos Culinaires have probably already purchased a copy of this book. In short, this book is what you would expect it to be. A collection of articles from the best journal concerning food history and exotica available in the English language.