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It's full of little things you an add to your kitchen to bring a hardy feel to cooking and your home. Excellent for the country cook or city-dweller who needs to connect to European culinary roots. Some things are so easy, children can do them. Others (like the section on bread making) require a little more. Overall it's worth it.

This book is layed out as a series of chapters on particular topics such as making wine, vinegar, goat cheese, curing olives, making bread, etc. These chapters are then arranged as a description, with narrative, of how to make the food followed by recipes that *use the food*. So, for example, there is a chapter on making vinegar that can be summed up by: take old wine, get a mother of vinegar, let it hang out until done, (which is described) and bottle it. (with a little explanation of why you bottle). The recipes for the vinegar section then have various dressings that use vinegar.

This highlights a couple of things. First, that these foods are *simple* to make. There's nothing deep or complex about them. The foods will make themselves, if you just give a little support.

However, when I turn to the bread chapter, I am startled. The bread described uses commercial yeast, except for a very misleading section on sourdough. First, I would have thought that *this* book would emphasize sourdough bread which is easier, more fun, more tasty and, indeed, an increasingly "lost art".

I also would have thought that there would be a section on traditional preserving techniques, along the lines of the book "Keeping Foods Fresh" by Claude Aubert. The fact that it isn't highlights, I suspect, another underlying issue with the book. The imagined "good food" is western Mediterranean in origin. And the closer the better. It would have been interesting to consider some of the wonderful techniques used in Greece or Yugoslavia. That would get a range of fascinating things like pickled capers, cabbage and grape leaves, which would be very compatible with the spirit of the book and would have made a much more fascinating range.

A friend passed this book along to me in the Peace Corps, and it consumed me until I had consumed the delights described inside. I am buying a copy of the revised edition for a dear friend's birthday. The vinegar (made from left-over dinner party wine) is the best I have had. The satisfaction that comes from kneading and baking your own bread (and the subsequent homemade french toast and croutons) is worth the Sunday afternoon. This is a roll-up-your-sleeves-and-get-to-it! kind of book that will illuminate and enrich your culinary life. Off to make cheese...