water sports |
Aftersleep Books
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Caught Inside A Surfer s Year on the CaliforniaThe following report compares books using the SERCount Rating (base on the result count from the search engine). |
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Aftersleep Books - 2005-06-20 07:00:00 | © Copyright 2004 - www.aftersleep.com () | sitemap | top |
I have two basic problems with the book: First, _really_ being a surfer means that one's relationship to the lifestyle/commitment/experience is so personal that anyone else's perspective is inevitably going to grate in a few places. Intensely. (My apologies for the eletism, but I'm also not convinced that one can start so late as Duane and _really_ be a surfer.) Thus, this is likely a much better book for the non-surfer. This leads to me second difficulty--Duane provides a really romantic view of surfing, and, frankly, makes it all sound way too attractive. I don't want more people in the water, and neither, if he's honest, does Duane. One of the reviewers here on amazon closes his review with "For what it's worth, I didn't surf when I first read it, but I loved it so much that I soon took up the sport." For the surfers reading this, 'nuf said.